The Chapel, Paddington

Today's lunch was at The Chapel. A dark wood-adorned, breezy gastro-pub near Edgware Road. The last time I came here the food was unfortunately rather disappointing - great big, greasy, medium steaks (when I'd asked for rare) slathered in some questionable blue cheese. Why did I decide to come back for more? Well, the decor and atmosphere is friendly and informal, and the varied menu of fresh, seasonal food changes daily, although the staple of rib eye steak with blue cheese and fries is clearly not going anywhere soon.

The Chapel consists of a large bar and a small open kitchen, frequented by two chefs. With four seating areas, the bar (small wooden tables with mismatched chairs), the main dining room (large wooden tables for bigger parties), the sitting room (tanned leather sofas for coffee and newspapers) and outside (right next to the road, so I'm not sure how restful it would be there), there is a place for all occasions, which I always like. The menu is on one large blackboard stuck to the side of the kitchen, boasting 17 dishes including starters, one light lunch and main courses. An extensive, 39-strong wine list is on another board. Although it was only fairly busy this lunchtime, it did get rather crowded around the board, which meant we couldn't peruse it for as long as we'd like, as our fellow diners strained to have a look over our shoulders. I would suggest a few other boards dotted around the pub, to make it a slightly more relaxing experience.

And now onto the really important matter of the food: Starters included baked egg cocotte with smoked salmon, spinach and Gruyere cream, £5 (although not something I ordered this time, I have tried the cocotte before - perfectly cooked eggs enveloped in a silken creamy, cheese sauce), Marsala and sage pork belly with radiccio and apple salad, £6.50, and king prawns, calamari and soft shelled crab tempura, £8. The light lunch was a goat cheese and tapenade puff pastry tart, £9, and the main courses included The Chapel beef burger with french fries and onion jam, £10.50, and seared pork chop with root vegetable gratin, creamed leeks and caramelised apples, £12.50.

Food critics often say you can tell the calibre of a place by the 'house' burger, and, encouragingly, mine was delicious. Perfectly medium rare and juicy, it came in a toasted seeded bun with salad, mayonnaise, and tomato. The onion jam was a complete treat, wonderfully sweet and sticky, with just the right amount to compliment the beef and salad. The burger, although large (I don't want any measly offerings), was not so ginormous that I needed to unhinge my jaw to eat it, although, because the bottom of the bun was slightly under-toasted it did start to fall apart when I was eating (although I am not entirely against getting a bit mucky whilst eating, finger-lickin' and all). The accompaniment to my burger was one of those metal pots of fries - hot and salty but not quite crispy enough, and miniature jam jars of ketchup and mayo. I love a condiment, and was thrilled I didn't need to ask for any.

The pork chop was met with a little less enthusiasm. Although nicely presented, the meat tasted just a tad too well-hung ('feeling its age with an intriguing gamey taste' my companion aptly commented) and was less seared and more boiled. The uniformed grey/pink flabby meat did not have the desired crispy, smokey skin and translucent fat melting into tender, juicy flesh. The accompaniments were more of a hit - thinly sliced root vegetables, including squash, onion, turnip and potato layered with a garlicky cream sauce and breadcrumb topping. The creamed leeks and caramelised apples added further dimensions to the dish.

Service: 7/10 (slow, although we weren't in rush)
Food: 7/10 (inconsistent, pork: 6/10, burger: 9/10)
Ambiance: 8/10 (informal, spacious)
Price: £26 for two main courses and fizzy water

The Chapel, 48 Chapel Street, London, NW1 5DP.