I traipse past Boisdale every single day, and every single day I think how inviting it looks. Two weeks ago I peered through the tartan curtains at dark wooden tables and candelabras, noting wistfully that it had all the makings of 'my kind of restaurant'. The pull of daily live jazz swayed me further. So I had to go. And go I did.
On the day in question (it was a Thursday) I felt I would need to book - somewhere as fab-looking as this would surely need a reservation? Yes, it turns out it does. When my companion and I turned up people were being turned away because, not only was it fully booked, but also it's members only for non-bookers. Book.
The entrance is filled with old books and a stuffed bird, with smartly dressed waiting staff hovering to take you to your table. Once our coats had been taken we were led through two dark, candle-lit rooms into our dining room. We had a corner table, with the two seats next to each other rather than opposite, this added to the intimacy of the occasion and the flickering candle and chatter from our fellow diners gave a friendly and informal yet sophisticated air.
The extensive cocktail list quickly arrived, I ordered a whiskey collins (£10.50) and my companion ordered a Caipirinha (£8.50). Although they took ages to arrive, they were worth the wait. Both beautifully blended and fresh, a real treat at the beginning of the meal.
The a la carte menu is a sight to behold. Never have I knowingly eaten Scottish fair, so I decided I should go as Scottish as possible in my meal this evening. With Loch Dart gravadlax, haggis and mountain hare on offer, choosing food was tough. Really tough. But we just about managed it...
To start with we shared half a dozen Isle of Cumbrae rock oysters (£16.50) which were, without a shadow of doubt, the best oysters I have ever eaten. Plump, juicy with the salty tang of the sea still ever present. It came with lemon in a muslin cloth to stop the stones and pith getting into the shellfish, and a bowl of shallot vinaigrette: sharp, tangy, and the perfect accompaniment to the flesh.
For main, we both decided to go for specials (apparently a sure-fire way to find out a chef's true worth is to try the specials, as they tend to consist of seasonal, market-fresh ingredients). I had a whole guinea-fowl with game chips and watercress, and my companion had steak with chunky chips and peppercorn sauce. The guinea-fowl was extremely gamey - so gamey in fact it tasted a little like fish, and the game chips were more like crisps (the round shape put me off a little - I am used to game chips being in a more potato-peeling shape, but this is personal, snobby, preference), the peppery watercress finished off the dish well. My companion said the steak, served rare, was the best he had ever tasted: You could cut through it with a butter knife it was so tender. The steak did not automatically come with chips, and the waiter did not say this at the point of ordering, which was a disappointment, but in a finger-click he had brought some over (£3.50). The peppercorn was creamy and extremely peppery - not to my taste, but absolutely to my companion's.
For dessert we shared three balls of sorbet - elderflower, blackberry and green apple. The elderflower was delicious and floral, whilst the apple was a wash out in comparison. The blackberry was a deep purple and beautifully tangy - my favourite of the three.To wash our food down, we shared a bottle of Welmoed Chenin Blanc from South Africa (£19.90) which complimented all three courses beautifully (yes, including both meaty mains, as much of a faux pas as that might be).
The whole evening was an absolute success, with just the right mix of formal dining experience to friendly, bubbling conversation from the other diners. The waiting staff were attentive and friendly, although, to my slight dismay, none, bar one, were from Scotland: A pity. They were, despite their various nationalities, gamely wearing tartan kilts and trousers, so I can't complain too much!
Cost: £156 for two for three courses (shared starter and dessert) including a cocktail each, wine and service charge. There is a two-course prix fix menu available for £19.50, which makes the whole occasion more affordable if eating on a budget (we decided to go all out this night - I normally need to be a lot more thrifty!).
Food: 10/10
Drink: 10/10
Ambiance: 10/10
Price: 8/10 (for £17, chips should be included with the steak)
Service: 8/10 (it got better once we had a true Scot serving us!)
Boisdale
15 Ecclestone Street
Belgravia
SW1W 9LX
Images: Martyn Balham
